Sign up to receive information from First Ascent about special events, classes, discounts and more. McColl, 33 of North Vancouver, B.C., has won four combined world championships, though he only narrowly qualified for the Olympics with a 10th place finish at a 2019 world championship. But at the Olympics, 20 men and 20 women will each compete in each event. The get the facts podium, and overall standings, are then determined by multiplying an individual’s ranking from each event. An activity on the rise due to its combination of physical activity and exhilaration will climb a new frontier when the first rock is grabbed at the Olympics on Aug. 3. Shauna Coxsey was the sole British competitor in Tokyo, finishing tenth overall in the women’s competition.

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In 2018, she won the Lead Climbing World Championship—beating Janja Garnbret on time. She had tape on her finger during qualifiers, but climbed well, especially in lead where she finished 2nd. As mentioned above, each athlete’s overall standing was determined by multiplying their placements for each event, with lower scores ranking higher. Hypothetically, if a competitor placed third in speed climbing, first in bouldering, and fifth in lead climbing, that competitor’s final combined score would be 15 (3x1x5). In the bouldering portion, competitors each had four minutes to reach the top of each boulder in a set of four. Credit was given for securely reaching the top hold in a controlled manner with both hands.

Medal summary

The sport was first considered for the Olympic Games in the early 2000s, as climbing competitions gained international traction. However, it wasn’t until the Tokyo 2020 Olympics that sport climbing made its official debut as an Olympic event. Born in Utah in 1997, Nathaniel Coleman is widely known in the American comp scene for his stellar mental game and his smooth yet powerful climbing style.

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Known as an adept all-arounder, Nonaka clearly demonstrated her medal-potential during the qualification round, placing 4th in speed, 8th in bouldering, and 3rd in lead. We learned that speed isn’t her forte (she placed 17th) but that she’s a dang strong boulderer. In lead climbing, athletes must try to make it to the top of a wall – which is over 15m with an overhang – within six minutes. Athletes are given six minutes to look at the wall before they begin climbing in order to gauge potential routes.

• At the Tokyo 2020 Olympics all three sport climbing formats were grouped into one combined medal event for each gender.
• Athletes are given six minutes to look at the wall before they begin climbing in order to gauge potential routes.
• Garnbret was the only climber to top a single problem in Bouldering (finishing not one, but two) and also achieved the high point on the lead climbing wall.
• Read on to learn more about how each of the two medal events will be contested.
• Rock climbing, once considered a niche sport, has steadily gained popularity over the years, captivating enthusiasts with its blend of physical prowess, mental acuity, and sheer adrenaline.
• For each failed attempt before successfully reaching a top or a checkpoint, 0.1 points are deducted from their score.

Advancements in safety equipment, such as harnesses, ropes, carabiners, and climbing shoes, have significantly improved over the years. These innovations enhance safety and performance, making the sport more accessible and reducing the risk of injury. Qualification events included the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, Olympic Qualifying Event, and continental championships. Adam Ondra went into men’s combined finals ranked 5th, with a strong performance in both Bouldering and Lead that was enough to keep his poor Speed rank (18th) from holding him back. However, Ginés López performed rather poorly in the Lead and Bouldering finals, coming in fourth place in the former and seventh in the latter, as the only climber who failed to top a single problem.